オーストラリア旅行 20日目 ラミントン国立公園
はい、またブリスベンに戻ってきました。
今日はドライブ、ハイキング、キャンプと盛りだくさんの日なのですが、ストーム(嵐)が近づいているという天気予報。ありゃー、キャンプは無理だねぇ。天気には勝てないや。
ブリスベンを車で2時間ほど南下。まずガイドブックにも載っていない、できたばっかりのワイナリーをみかけたので立ち寄ることに。
ここのおすすめはワインにミルクを混ぜたデザートワイン。特殊な製法でワインとミルクが分裂しないそうです。はちみつとかチョコとかいろいろなフレーバーがあります。ミルクは嫌いだけどちょっと試飲してください。ちびっ。
…すげぇ味だ。こんなの買う人…いっしょにいたカップルが買っていきました。
ワインの方はブリスベンのワインコンテストで金賞、銅賞をとったりしております。ボディのある深い味わい。ブローディーが赤をお買いあげ。
そのまま車を走らせお目当てのワイナリーへ向かいますが、本日はおやすみでーす。バカぁ。
がっかりしたらおなかも減ったので少し戻ってカヌングラという小さな町へ。これがほんとにかわいらしい町で広場を囲んでホテル兼バー兼レストランが一軒、ピザ屋が一軒、薬屋が一軒、その他ちょこちょこという町。
「こんな町だと誰がなにをやったかみんな知ってるだろうね」
バーに入って店員のお姉さんに「今日のスペシャルはなに?」と聞いたら、ちょっと眉をしかめて笑いながら、
「羊の脳みそよ」
さすがオーストラリア!ぜひ食べたい!
いっしょに頼んだジンジャービールはたいへんおいしいものでした。
かぼちゃ、グリンピース、マッシュポテト、固いベーコン、そしてフライ。見た目はたいへんおいしそうです。
さて、いただきます。サクリ。美味しんぼではフグの白子って書いてあったけど、けっこうしっかりた固さ。白子じゃない、レバーの固さ。想像した脳みそっぽくない。
食べます。もぐもぐ。なんでしょうね、肉系の風味がします。そしてケモノくさいというかヤニっこい。もぐもぐ。うん、うまいかも。満足。
ラミントン国立公園へ到着。しかしいい天気だねぇ。嵐はどうなった?明日このままゴールドコースト行こうか?いや、なにも準備していない。なにも持ってきてない。あぁ、もったいない!
起点となる「O'Reilly's」というロッジでコーヒーを飲んでチョコバーを買って、よし!行くか。
全長14km、6時間のコースを行くつもりだったけど、なんか今は通行止めなんだって。よかった。ちがう、残念だなぁ。ということで11km、4時間のコース。
スタートしてすぐ巨大トカゲ登場。群れで。トカゲを探し20分ほど遊んでしまう。
ここにも絞め殺しのイチジクの木。中の木は死んで中に入れます。つーか、いたるところで殺しまくり。めずらしくもなんともない。
地上16mのところに吊り橋が張り巡らされており、高所恐怖症の方にはたまらない場所です。
そこからさらに木にかけられたハシゴを延々と登って、
地上33m(?)、熱帯雨林の上に出ます。下をのぞくとけっこうビビリます。これはめったにみれない眺めですねぇ。
しばらく進むと、ガサガサッ。イグアナだ!いるねぇ。普通にいるねぇ。
2時間半ほど熱帯雨林のアップダウンのある細い道を歩くと滝に出ました。ここで一旦休憩。ブローディーはさっそく泳ぎ出します。かなりの低水温。
「やま君は泳がないの?」
んー、ここで体を冷やしたくないなぁ。風邪はぜったい避けたい。ヘタレと呼んでもいいです。ここでチョコ食べてます。
青いザリガニ発見。水中深くにはには20cmほどの大物もいたそうです。
そろそろ日も暮れはじめ出口も近づいた頃、ブローディーが「最後に野生のワラビーが見れるよ」と言った瞬間!
ドン!ドン!ドン、ドン、ドン…
目の前の道をものすごい勢いでワラビーが横切りました。あんなに複雑に交わっている木の間を、よくあんなスピードで跳ねることができるなぁ。
そしてブローディーが言った通り出口ではワラビーが遊んでいました。
夕食後、こんどはナチュラルブリッジという場所にツチボタル(グロウワームと呼ばれる蚊の幼虫)を見に行きます。ブローディーが言います。
「驚くよ」
「なにが?」
「日本人が多くて」
ゴールドコーストからも近く絶好の観光ポイントなのだそうです。
着いて懐中電灯を持ってツチボタルが住んでいる洞窟へ向けて歩きます。
驚いた!日本人が多くて!
マジでびっくりした。いくつもの日本人グループを日本人のツアーガイドが引率しています。暗闇ですれ違うと「現地の人が前からきましたー、右に寄ってくださーい」「ハロー」「ハロー」。なんだこりゃなんだこりゃ。欧米人は皆無。中国人、韓国人も多いです。
滝つぼの下が洞窟になっておりまして、ここにお目当てのツチボタルが生息しています。ここからはライト禁止。
淡く青い(緑色に近い青)光が洞窟の壁一面を覆います。きれいですねぇ。なるほど、なにかアジア人の琴線にふれるものがあるのかもしれません。
もちろんフラッシュは禁止。低速シャッターで撮影を試みましたが、やっぱり無理でした。
そんなツチボタルで有名なナチュラルブリッジですが、その下に流れる川に大きなウナギが住んでいることはたぶんほとんど知られていない!
なぜなら俺たちは真っ暗闇の中、滝つぼで泳いでいたから。日本人観光客もまさか自分たちの足元で人が泳いでるとは思わないよねぇ(笑)。俺は怖くて滝の下まで行けなかったけど。やっぱりヘタレだ。
【オーストラリア豆知識】
Billabong (ビラボン)
わたしの好きなスポーツウェア、特にスイムウェアのメーカーですが、そうか、オーストラリアの会社だったのか。どおりでオーストラリア中にビラボンの店があるわけだ。
ビラボンはアボリジニの言葉で「水辺」とか「水のあるところ」という意味です。
イタリア料理のお店でスパゲッティ。
「ペスカトーレ」
「は?」
「ペスカトーレ」(発音を変えて)
「なに?」
「ペスカトーレ」(ブローディーが言った)
「んー…、あぁ!ペスカトー!」
わかってよ(泣)。ペスカトーレはスペイン語の発音だそうです。
「あれ?ソースが白い、トマト使ってないんだね」
「ペスカトーレとはそういう料理だ」
そうか?本場のレシピがすごく気になる。もちろん麺は柔らかく、味つけが濃く、油(バター)が強い。オーストラリアはこういう味つけが多いよねぇという話をしながらけっこうおいしくいただいてしまいました。
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